Dermatologists share the anti-aging advances they love best for better skin health.
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14 Anti-Aging Breakthroughs Dermatologists Want You to Know
Updated on Nov. 11, 2024
What are the best anti-aging treatments?
“Patience and consistency are critical, but it’s important to understand that no one product is a miracle solution for everyone,” Dr. Chapas explains.
Your expectations matter, too. “Anti-aging products can only do so much, and extraordinary results are more the exception than the rule,” says Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas. “We also must remember that maintaining our current state is still winning against aging, which is progressive. The clock doesn’t stop for anyone!”
The experts say that when it comes to specific products or treatments: If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is. “There is no erasing your pores or wrinkles,” Dr. Geddes-Bruce says. “Look for products that invest in doing clinical trials to back up their claims.”
While working with a board-certified dermatologist will net you the best, personalized results for your specific skin concerns, our experts can help point you in the right direction with the latest skincare breakthroughs.
Peptides
“In terms of ingredients, peptides are being studied more for their potential to stimulate collagen production,” Dr. Chapas says. Peptides are strings of amino acids that can help build two skin components we tend to lose with age: collagen and elastin. According to 2023 research published in Cosmetics, peptides may prevent skin aging by boosting the production and activity of collagen, elastin, and other important proteins in our skin, which improves skin health and appearance. The research also says peptides have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, which can target various other skin concerns.
Additionally, peptides are gentle on the skin. Retinoids have similar effects, but can cause irritation and dermatitis, says Anthony M. Rossi, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York City and the founder of Dr. Rossi DERM MD. “[While] I still love [retinoids], peptides have less irritating effects but can still get the job done.”
Dr. Rossi’s skincare line is based on a peptide that targets a specific receptor in the skin called TRPV1, which 2023 research says plays a role in skin aging as well as inflammatory issues like rosacea, psoriasis, and dermatitis. “It’s a biomimetic peptide based on the venom of a sea anemone,” he explains. “In clinical trials, it helps to reduce redness, fine lines, and improve visible signs of aging.”
AquaGold Fine Touch microneedling
Microneedling has been well-documented for its skincare benefits since the 1990s. It involves a trained professional using a specialized device that punctures the skin, creating micro-injuries that don’t cause damage, but are enough to trigger the skin’s healing process. According to a 2024 review of research published in Cosmetics, this process can strengthen skin, improve skin texture, and treat fine lines, sun damage, dark spots, and scars.
The AquaGold Fine Touch takes this proven process a step further, using 24-karat-gold needles (each thinner than a strand of hair) to place custom solutions—Botox to shrink pores, for example, or Restylane for volume—deep into the dermis, says Michele Green, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Radiofrequency microneedling
“In terms of technologies, radiofrequency microneedling has become a game-changer in non-invasive skin tightening, offering noticeable improvement in skin texture and firmness without significant downtime,” Dr. Chapas says. This treatment adds radio frequency to the traditional microneedling process, which, according to a 2023 review of research published in Aesthetic Surgery Journal Open Forum, enhances results—particularly for skin tightening and treating signs of aging.
Ultherapy
“Ultherapy is still by far the best and simplest non-surgical way to lift the face, neck, and jaw,” says Kenneth Mark, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a cosmetic dermatology expert and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. “It is a single session with no downtime, and the results last for years.” The treatment uses ultrasound energy to lift and tighten loose skin—which would normally be “nipped and tucked” during a facelift—while stimulating collagen production.
Miria laser treatment
“Laser treatments continue to evolve, with more advanced fractional lasers that can deliver powerful results for wrinkles, pigmentation, and skin resurfacing,” Dr. Chapas says. “We recently added the new Miria device to our practice, and we’re seeing impressive results.”
The Miria laser is a fractionated non-ablative laser, which means it doesn’t damage the top layer of the skin, promising less downtime and post-treatment care. Yet that doesn’t mean it skimps on power. The Miria laser uses AI to pinpoint treatment areas, delivering more than twice the amount of energy than any previous FDA-approved laser. “It’s the first of its kind to treat at a predetermined dual depth, with integrated treatment providing the best tightening and resurfacing at the same time,” explains Heidi Prather, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas, and a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. The advanced technology reduces the risk of pigmentation issues often associated with high-energy lasers, making the Miria laser a great option for people with darker skin tones.
Mixto laser treatment
Fractional CO2 laser resurfacing treatments may be more intense than their non-ablative counterparts, but they’ve proven their staying power thanks to dramatic results. “For those willing to have the downtime of peeling skin, the Mixto is the best in class for fractional CO2 lasers,” says Dr. Mark.
Micro-coring
“We recently launched a micro-coring technology in our practice, the Ellacor device,” Dr. Chapas says. “This tightens the skin by removing small ‘micro-cores’ of skin,” like an amped-up version of microneedling.
This new technology is being coined as a minimally-invasive alternative to a facelift, achieving scarless skin removal and treating loose skin and moderate to severe wrinkles with fast recovery time, according to a 2022 study published in PRS Global Open.
Skinvive by Juvéderm
“For patients who want increased hydration and a six-month glow, a single session of Allergan’s newest injectable called Skinvive is a great option,” Dr. Mark says. “Think of it as their lightest weight hyaluronic acid injection—so not a filler, but an injectable moisturizer.”
Research published in 2023 in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal backs this up, finding that Skinvive spreads more naturally and easily than any dermal filler available, improving the skin’s overall quality, radiance, and glow.
Juvéderm Volux
“For those who want an improved jawline [with or without treatments like ultherapy], Volux is the first and only FDA-cleared hyaluronic acid filler,” says Dr. Mark. As we age, the production of collagen and elastin—which gives our skin structure—decreases, leading to looser, saggier skin that’s especially noticeable in the jawline.
Volux helps to return this structural support, redefining your jawline.
Exosome therapy
“Exosomes have incredible potential to deliver the signals we want to the cells in our skin,” Dr. Geddes-Bruce says. These powerful particles play big roles in our body, acting as messengers for intercellular communication. For skin health, that means sending signals to the cells to perform functions that reduce inflammation and promote skin healing, collagen production, hydration, and protection from stressors, according to a 2023 review of research published in Cosmetics. Exosome therapy aims to hack this process, directing our skin cells how we want them to behave to achieve healthier, younger-looking skin.
Exosome therapy is currently only available as a topical application—though there’s a lot of research into the safety and potential of other treatment options like injections. “Stay tuned!” says Dr. Geddes-Bruce.
Pavise Dynamic Age Defense
While not necessarily a skincare breakthrough in 2024, our experts agree that sun protection really is the anti-aging answer. “There are so many exciting ingredients in our anti-aging skincare products, but nothing will work as much as regular use of sunscreen and other photoprotective measures,” Dr. Geddes-Bruce says.
“Pavise is a new product line that uses diamond-based technology to create more reflection of UV light from the skin,” Dr. Prather says. This creates a stronger protective barrier from sunlight, pollution, and free radicals that contribute to skin aging and inflammation. But it doesn’t just protect your skin—this product contains an ingredient blend that treats photodamage, dry skin, acne, skin tone and texture, and fine lines and wrinkles.
Exilis Ultra
“One of the greatest technologies is the Exilis Ultra, which combines a radiofrequency (RF) and ultrasound device,” explains Suneel Chilukuri, MD, FAAD, FACMS, cosmetic dermatologic surgeon and director of cosmetic surgery at Refresh Dermatology in Houston, Texas. Unlike its painful predecessors, this game changer provides a more comfortable “hot-stone massage-type experience” with stellar outcomes. “I’ve seen significant lifting and tightening of the face with an improvement of texture,” Dr. Chilukuri says
8-IN-1 BIOSERUM by DefenAge
Dr. Chapas says many over-the-counter (OTC) products are not as potent as professional treatments, and it can take time to see results. But she says that daily use of antioxidants in particular are great for addressing signs of aging between treatments. “Antioxidants, like vitamin C serums, help combat environmental damage and promote a brighter complexion,” she says.
She recommends 8-IN-1 BioSerum by DefenAge for her patients. “This serum combines antioxidants, retinol alternatives, and moisturizers to prevent and treat various signs of aging.”
Clinical Grade IPL Dark Spot Correcting Serum
Until now, your doctor’s best weapon against stubborn dark spots, or hyperpigmentation, has been hydroquinone, which is irritating and harsh on skin potentially triggering inflammation that can cause even more hyperpigmentation.
New York City dermatologist Dennis Gross, MD, has created a hyperpigmentation treatment that he says not only works as fast as prescription-strength hydroquinone but is gentle on skin. “With Clinical Grade IPL Dark Spot Correcting Serum, I hand-picked proven pigment-fighting ingredients, deliberately layering them in specific clinical concentrations to create a potent corrective serum that significantly fades the look of stubborn dark spots and discoloration for all skin types, all while preventing future hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Gross says.
About the Experts
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Sources
- Ann Chapas, MD, FAAD, FASLMS, FACMS, FASDS, a Fellow with the American Academy of Dermatology, Instructor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, and the Medical Director at Unionderm in Manhattan.
- Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas.
- Anthony M. Rossi, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a Dermatologist and Mohs Surgeon at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center and Founder of Dr. Rossi DERM MD.
- Michele Green, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Clinical Instructor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
- Kenneth Mark, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a cosmetic dermatology expert and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.
- Heidi Prather, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin and a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology
- Suneel Chilukuri, MD, FAAD, FACMS, cosmetic dermatologic surgeon and director of cosmetic surgery at Refresh Dermatology in Houston
- Dennis Gross, MD, a New York City dermatologist
- Grand View Research: “Anti-wrinkle Products Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report By Active Ingredients (Vitamin C, Hydroxy Acids), By Product (Cream, Lotion), By Distribution Channel, By Region And Segment Forecasts, 2023 - 2030”
- Cosmetics: “Insights into Bioactive Peptides in Cosmetics”
- Frontiers in Pharmacology: “TRPV1: A promising therapeutic target for skin aging and inflammatory skin diseases”
- Cosmetics: “Recent Advances in Microneedling-Assisted Cosmetic Applications”
- Aesthetic Surgery Journal Open Forum: “Radiofrequency Microneedling: Technology, Devices and Indications in the Modern Plastic Surgery Practice”
- PRS Global Open: “Dermal Micro-coring for the Treatment of Moderate to Severe Facial Wrinkles”
- Aesthetic Surgery Journal: “Improved Patient Satisfaction With Skin After Treatment of Cheek Skin Roughness and Fine Lines With VYC-12L: Participant-Reported Outcomes From a Prospective, Randomized Study”
- Cosmetics: “Therapeutic Values of Exosomes in Cosmetics, Skin Care, Tissue Regeneration, and Dermatological Diseases”
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