The pros don't let these things ruin their complexion—and neither should you.
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14 Things Dermatologists Never Put on Their Faces
Updated on Oct. 15, 2024
What not to use, according to dermatologists
Cleansing, moisturizing, and using sunscreen: Most dermatologists agree these simple, key components are the foundation for a great skincare routine. And while it’s not all that trendy, your lifestyle plays a big role in great-looking skin, too. “Sleep well, minimize unnecessary stress, and eat high-quality protein, good fats, and as many colorful plants as possible,” advises Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas.
Yet the science and technology of skincare continue to advance, and today’s available skincare products, devices, and treatments can make a huge difference for people with specific skin concerns. But it’s important to be discerning. “Understanding your skin type and individual needs is critical in long-term healthy skin habits and optimum results,” says Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, MD, FAAD, a double-board-certified dermatologist based in Dallas, Texas. “I recommend seeing a dermatologist to get a customized routine for your individual skincare needs. With all the skincare products on social media and that friends and family may be using, it can be overwhelming.”
While the best skincare routine is one that’s personalized to you, we asked dermatologists to point out which skincare items they’d never use on their faces—and so you shouldn’t, either.
Too many products
“Using too many products with different actives at the same time may irritate the skin,” Dr. Houshmand says. “Less is more.” For instance, if you are using multiple exfoliants and acids to target acne, your routine can create a compound effect that backfires—increasing dryness, inflammation, and redness, says Kenneth Mark, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a cosmetic dermatology expert and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. “Balance is key.”
Exfoliating brushes
“I stay away from exfoliating brushes on my face. Skin on the face must be treated very gently,” says Nava Greenfield, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group and Clinical Instructor at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. “The skin naturally exfoliates, so harsh devices are not needed and can even cause damage, irritation, and in severe cases, even scarring.”
Abrasive face scrubs
Similar to exfoliating brushes, physical scrubs that use rough or large ingredients to slough off skin are too harsh—to the point that they can actually cause harm. “I would never use an abrasive exfoliant, such as a crush nut preparation or rough scrub,” says Patricia Wexler, MD, FASDS, FAAD, FAACS, FASLMS, a double-board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. “This could cause inflammation, abrasions, post-inflammatory pigmentation, or dilated blood vessels—especially with sensitive skin like I have.”
Loofahs
Even though products like facial sponges are marketed as being gentle on the skin, docs advise you to steer clear of these, too. “It all comes down to the transfer of bacteria,” says Joel Schlessinger, MD, FAAD, a double-board-certified dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon, and researcher based in Omaha, Nebraska. Loofahs, facial sponges, Buf-Pufs—they all get up close and personal with unclean areas and then sit around, allowing bacteria to multiply within their nooks and crannies. “What to use instead? Your hands and a gentle cleanser,” he says.
At-home microneedling kits
“Microneedling in-office is a wonderful procedure when performed by medical professionals with proper equipment and training,” Dr. Houshmand says. But you should leave this treatment to the experts. “The main risks associated with microneedling at home are irritation, infection, and potential scarring.”
Microneedles create small wounds to the skin, and these can provide a pathway for bacteria to enter the skin and cause an infection, she explains. Plus, “Without proper technique and training, the skin can be irritated and sometimes lead to scarring.”
Silicon primers
“Steer clear of primers containing silicone, which clogs your pores and blocks the flow of oxygen,” advises Debra Jaliman, MD, FASDS, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital. “If you have acne-prone skin, it also traps blemish-causing bacteria.” She says red flag ingredients to avoid include cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, phenyl, and trimethicone.
Retinols
Over-the-counter retinol products make big promises, but they’re pricey—and for most people, they could be a waste of money. “If you want to use a retinoid, you are way better off with prescription-strength retinoic acid,” Dr. Mark explains. And this is true even if you have sensitive skin.
While tretinoin has been the gold-standard retinoid in dermatology for decades, it’s not the only option. “Generic tretinoin is not for every skin type,” says Jennifer Holman, MD, FAAD, a double-board-certified dermatologist and regional president for US Dermatology Partners. She explains that tretinoin can be extremely drying, and sensitive or normal to dry skin types may not be able to tolerate it well. However, “There are other cosmetic and cosmeceutical preparations of retinoids that are more appropriate for those skin types, and you won’t have the trade-off of dry, flaking skin as you try to address fine lines and wrinkles.”
DIY chemical peels
“Chemical peels come in various formulations and strengths,” Dr. Houshmand says—and it’s another treatment she recommends getting done in-office. “Peels can penetrate the skin, and without proper experience, can end up causing irritation, blisters, or infection.”
Pure essential oils
“Essential oils have their place in skincare,” Dr. Holman says. But according to research published in the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, more than 80 essential oils have been shown to cause contact allergic dermatitis, and for any topical use, they should only be used in extremely low concentrations. “Often when people apply undiluted essential oils to their skin, I see significant irritation, allergies, and skin breakdown,” Dr. Holman says.
Hot wax
“When it comes to hair removal, I would choose laser, tweezing, or threading instead of waxing,” says Jennifer MacGregor, MD, FAAD, FASDS, FASLMS, a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Columbia University Medical Center. This is because that hot wax actually adheres to your skin—and pulls off the top layer along with your hair.” If you use retinoids or exfoliants regularly, it could even cause you to blister, burn, scab, or scar.”
Anything that “tingles”
“One of the most common mistakes I see is people stripping their skin barrier with alcohol or products that are too strong,” Dr. Holman says. “Sometimes people enjoy the ‘tingle’ of harsh astringents, alcohol wipes, or extremely hot water. In reality, these strip the top layer of skin from the barrier ceramides and lipids—and actually leave skin impaired and more prone to injury and dermatitis.”
Homemade sunscreen
There’s a lot of science that goes into how products are formulated and delivered into the skin, explains Heidi Prather, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas, and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. “You can’t always mix the same ingredients in your kitchen and get the same product outcomes.”
Sunscreen is just one example, and yet social media and beauty blogs are full of DIY recipes claiming to be “natural” or “nontoxic.” “I often hear from patients that they only want ‘natural’ products for their skin—my response is that poison ivy is totally natural, but I don’t want you to put that on your skin,” Dr. Holman says. “Gentle as opposed to natural is a better option.”
Dr. Houshmand points out that there are so many excellent formulations of sunscreen available that offer broad-spectrum coverage against UVA and UVB rays, making it easy to choose a product that works for your skin type. “These products are tested and regulated and have expert chemists, formulators, and ingredient standardization,” she says. “At-home products may not have the appropriate amount of active ingredients and may end up irritating your skin and not offering appropriate sun protection.”
Toothpaste
“While you may have heard the skincare myth that toothpaste will clear up your breakouts, it’s more likely to cause irritation more than anything else,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and Director of Cosmetic & Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “If you find yourself with a red, angry pimple, apply over-the-counter 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide formula, like Neutrogena On-The-Spot Acne Treatment, to kill blemish-causing bacteria and reduce inflammation.”
Nothing
Dr. Houshmand says that skipping sunscreen is among the biggest skincare mistakes you can make. “Sunscreen daily is beneficial for all skin types year-round,” she says. “This protects you from both skin cancer and actinic (UV) photodamage.”
In addition: “Moisturized skin instantly looks better,” says Dr. Geddes-Bruce. “Keep your skin barrier protected and moisturize daily for ASAP anti-aging effects.”
About the Experts
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Sources
- Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas
- Elizabeth Houshmand, MD, FAAD, FASLM, a double board-certified dermatologist, Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology, and Diplomat of the American Board of Dermatology
- Kenneth Mark, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a cosmetic dermatology expert and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology
- Nava Greenfield, MD, a board- certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group and Clinical Instructor at Moun Sinai Hospital
- Patricia Wexler, MD, FASDS, FAAD, FAACS, FASLMS, a double board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor at the Icahn School of Medicine in New York
- Joel Schlessinger, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and researcher in Omaha, Nebraska
- Debra Jaliman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital
- Jenni Holman, MD, FAAD, a double board-certified dermatologist and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology
- Jennifer MacGregor, MD, FAAD, FASDS, FASLMS, a dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology and Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Columbia University Medical Center
- Heidi Prather, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, Texas, and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist, Associate Professor of Dermatology, and the Director of Cosmetic & Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City
- International Journal of Women’s Dermatology: “Art of Prevention: Essential Oils - Natural Products Not Necessarily Safe”
Medically reviewed by 
